Visualizzazione post con etichetta Central America. Mostra tutti i post
Visualizzazione post con etichetta Central America. Mostra tutti i post

10 gen 2015

San Blas islands (Kuna Yala): a 365-islands archipelago in the Panamanian Caribbean

I could not imagine that at 2 hours driving distance from Panama City there would be a paradise.
When my family came visit me from Italy to spend the Christmas holidays together in Panama, I wanted to bring them to a special place, and San Blas turned out to be a really good choice: a paradise, yes, but unique, different from the typical comfortable beach resorts that we are used to.

The amazing "roller-coaster" road to get to San Blas!
It is actually a very spartan place, and some guys in the islands have asked me, incredoulous, "OMG, how did you bring your parents here?!". Why?

No electricity. Some islands had a self-generator which ran only a couple of hours a day, but only to light up some few light bulbs...anyways forget about internet!
No private bathroom. There were actually only two shared showers and two shared toilets, in our island. And there was no flush - to flush them you had to collect water with a small bucket and through it to the toilet!
You sleep in cabañas (cabins) or tents. The cabins are made of wood, cane sticks and palm leaves, with obviously many holes and open fissures from which little animals could enter. And some materasses are not the most comfortable in the world! Alternatively, you can chose the cheaper option of a tent, rented by them, or bring your own one.

The menu is fixed. So if you have too particular tastes in food, you don't have much choice: you eat what they cook!!!

So, for all these reasons it may not be completely indicated for older people who are looking for a comfortable place. But if you are looking for relax, and disconnection from the world, this is the right place! I could really enjoy my family with no other distractions, I could finally read that book that I wanted to read, I snorkeled in those cristal clear waters, I took a lot of sun, visited the neighboring islands, I watched the stars, I relaxed on the hammocks, caught coconuts from the palmtrees...how regenerating!!! Basically you wake up with the sun and go to bed when it goes down ^^
Isla Aroma
You also have the opportunity to stay in touch with the local culture: these 365 islands (of which only 80ish are inhabited) are owned and run by the indigenous Kuna people ("Kuna Yala" in fact means "land of Kunas"), who live on the islands during the summer months (December to March approx.). You will be able to see how they live and how they dress, with their peculiar coloured materials.
My mom and I with a Kuna woman
 
TRAVEL TIPS:
Which island to chose??
I stayed in Isla Aroma (also called Isla Anzuelo), which I really liked. Not too small and not too big, many palmtrees, beautiful cristalline water and nice Kunas. I had some feedbacks that the Isla Iguana (right next to Isla Aroma) was maybe even better. During your stay there, they will bring you with boats to other day trips to other beautiful islands: Isla Perro Chico (where you can also sleep), Isla Pelicano (my favourite!!! very small, but a real paradise) and Piscinas (o Isla Estrella), which is a sandbank with many sea stars. If these tours are not included in your package, arrange directly with the boat drivers and negotiate for 10-15$ each for the whole morning trip.


Isla Perro - Dog island
X-mas tree!
Isla Aroma
Isla Pelicano
In gorgeous Isla Pelicano

The three siblings, in Isla Estrella
Us three in Isla Aroma

A sea star in Isla Estrella

Prices are reasonable!!
Prices vary depending on how many intermediaries you use and which island yo chose. The best way is always to call directly the island and arrange with them by yourself, knowing already more or less the price range. What they do is normally ask for a price which includes food (beakfast, lunch and dinner, but not drinks--> I suggest that you bring your own water, fruit and snacks from Panama City, because they have limited stock at high prices) and sometimes transportation from the port. The price at Isla Aroma(isla Anzuelo), for example, as at beginning of 2015 is around 36 US$ per person per night in the cabin, and much less for the tent (food included). For transport, the boats to bring you around the islands cost around 10-15$ maximum per person per tour (they can ask you more, but negotiate!), and about 10$ per person to/from the port. Moreover, consider that when entering the region, you will be asked to pay 20$ per person (or 5$, if you are Panamanian resident) as taxes + 2$ per person as port taxes.
Transport from/to Panama City is 50$ per person go and back. I always went with Pepe who is a very nice Kuna. His number is +507 60890657 and you can tell him that Sofia "la italiana" has given you the contact! Otherwise, when you book the cabins on the islands, the owners can organise
Other useful contacts:
Isla Aroma/Anzuelo: +507 67025842/65191305/60871887 (contact: Ruso)
Isla Iguana: +507 67359510 (contact: Erubey Diaz)
Isla Perro Chico: +507 60600640/65394940 or mail assudub@gmail.com
Isla Pelicano: +507 60750703/67616101

When to go?? 
Sunny months in Panama are from end of November to March included, so this is the only period when it is worth going the San Blas - Kuna Yala, in my opinion.
The best is to spend there 1, 2 or 3 nights....You will feel regenerated!!

7 dic 2014

Bocas del Toro: young, wild, and free in the Panamanian Caribbean!

[**Click here for the Italian version on Bigodino.it!**]

I just came back from a trip to Bocas del Toro with 2 of my dearest friends, Claire & Ben, who came visit me in Panama from far away.
...Needless to say that it was LEGEN - wait for it- DARY !!! Besides the beauty of the place, I had so much fun with the guys, enjoying both Bocas and Panama City and surroundings, Pacific and Altantic oceans.

Bocas del Toro is a beautiful archipelago located in the north-western side of the country, towards the border with Costa Rica, and which -thank God- is still not as touristic as many popular destinations and still gives you the pleasure to find youself alone in virgin beaches.


After the friday night out in Panama City and 0 hours of sleep, we ran directly to Panama City Albrook airport for our morning flight to Bocas! ...And after 40 minutes, paradise found!!
Partners in crime: ready to meet Ben in Bocas!
Not to miss:
  • Red Frog Beach - Ten minutes boat from Isla Colón (the main island where the plane lands and where we had the hotel), this emerald-water & white-sand beach is lovely. You can surf, body surf, chase coconuts, and simply have beautiful walks along the sand. And it is not crowded at all!
Arriving to the island of Red Frog Beach
Heading to Red Frog Beach
Ben =)

Coconut hunters!!


  • Fishing day - You can´t miss the adrenaline of fishing a tuna, spotting a shark, and (if you want) to snorkel in those beautiful waters! At the end of the day, you can cook the fish caught or in your hotel/hostel or in a restaurant. A Catalan chef cooked our big tuna and macarela for us and prepared DELICIOUS tataki, tuna tartare, tuna sashimi etc. Just the best thanksgiving dinner ever =)
Our second caught of the day! Tuna!

  • Isla Zapatilla - 30-40 minutes away form Isla Colón by boat, Isla Zapatilla is composed of two little islands which are incredible. They are covered of wild palmtrees, with pure white sand and cristalline water. Super wild and it´s inhabitated! You can combine it with the fishing day (as we did), or just go there for the day and make a pic-nic on the border of the blue water.
Isla Zapatilla
Claire and I arriving to Isla Zapatilla
Paradise found in Isla Zapatilla
Love them




  • Rent a bike and discover Isla Colón - Isla Colón is lovely and it really deserves a tour around, to discover all those places/beaches which are not so popular but yet amazing. You can rent a bike for some dollars for the whole day or some hours and just go around. For example, i LOVED Bluff beach (our footprint were the only ones on the sand of the whole beach - spectacular!), and the bike tour on rocky/sandy roads along the sea is very nice. (My bike was, of course, fucsia!)
Playa Bluff - just the three of us!

Lunch break
Arrived in Playa Bluff with our bikes!

  • Relax on a hammock after the beach day - If you stay in a hotel which is right on the water border, there´s nothing like relaxing on a hammock on the water after a long beach day!!!! Especially if you share the hammock with someone like Claire or Ben... (I have been to Hotel Olas, and for the position and price I can recommend it!)
 
  • See the dolphins - We didn't have the time to do it but there is a harbour where spotting a dolphin is almost 100% guaranteed!

What else to say...Visit Bocas! And see the amazing video that Ben made of the trip ;)
Gracias chicos!!!! I miss you

18 nov 2014

El Salvador: the land of Volcanoes - and Surf - and coffee fields - and much more !!!

My trip to Guatemala was followed by the little country of El Salvador: 7 hours by bus from Guatemala City, on my own, to reach my friend Karla, a real salvadoreña that was housemate of mine while I was living in Buenos Aires last year.

The smallest contry among the 6 republics of Central America, and the only one that doesn't touch the Caribbean sea, EL Salvador seems to be unique: the mild weather, the variety of landscapes, its people, its delicious coffee, the great surf spots...

VOLCANOES & LAKES
"Land of volcanoes" - Antoine de Saint-Exupery described this way the little world of the Little Prince, with most probability representing the country of El Salvador. Did you know that Saint-Exupery's wife was Salvadorian, and the Rose in the Little Prince story was probably representing her? El Salvador has indeed almost 25 active volcanoes, some of which today are lakes. I have visited the volcano San Salvador (some km from the capital San Salvador) from which I flavoured great cocktails while enjoying an even greater sunset and view the city, and the spectacular volcanic-origin Lake Coatepeque (whose water, in some periods of the year, becomes of a light deep turquoise color, due to some algae and sulphur).
Enjoying the view of Lago Coatepeque, with Manà music in the background!
With my personal guides <3 in front of Lago Coatepeque

Our road trip

Sunset from Volcano San Salvador
SEA, SURF & COCONUTS
If you -as me- are lovers of the sea, no doubt you will fall in love with the beaches that El Salvador offers. I have visited Playa el Tunco, 25 minutes by car from San Salvador, were I have been surfing with perfect waves and a peach-coloured sky, and after the swim enjoyed the fresh coconut my friends had ready for me =).
My deserved coconut after surf
Chicas lindas <3: Karla & I !
You can't miss the sunset from one of the beach-front bars. We literally spent 5 hours with my friends and their lovely group of friends just having fun at the bar with a perfect breeze and view of the sea.
Sunset, Playa el Tunco
If you have time, you definitely have to spend the night there in one of the hostels in the beach !!!


Five hours after the sunset...still there!!!
The entrance of la Hola Betos in Costa del Sol!
Costa del Sol
Hola Betos in La Costa del Sol

COFFEE FIELDS
Another experience I LOVED was viting coffee fields and my friend Karla's finca in Ataco (not far from the border with Guatemala)Look how spectacular the views !!!! We had so much fun and have been eating so well in her hometown city of Ahuachapan!!!
Karla's coffee field -amazing!!

The view from Karla's finca
Me, trying the coffee beans - they were too good!!!
My dream come true - me on the pickup full of coffee bags!
On the pickup! going back to Ahuachapan from the Ataco fields
Me in the coffee beans
Quads in Ataco
Ahuachapan
To eat, fresh ceviche (typical Peruvian dish also very popular in all Central American countries, based on raw fish) or sopa de mariscos (seafood soup), go to the rustic little restaurants in Puerto la Libertad or go to La Hola Betos (both the one in Playa el Sunzal -another great spot for surfing- and the one in Costa del Sol beach). Other typical food that you just CAN'T miss is the pupùsas (corn-based tortillas filled with melted cheese and/or other ingredients), and the frijoles (red beens puree). Have a look at the pictures to realize why I loved that much all these places!!
Mi amiga Karla in one of the restaurants in Puerto la Libertad - just 20 minutes from San Salvador!

La Hola Betos, el Tunzal

 More pictures of the city...

From Volcano San Salvador - the capital San Salvador behind us! And behind the hills, the Pacific Ocean =)
El Salvador del Mundo in San Salvador, with my two favourite guides!
Cemetery in the countryside - How lovely all coloured
Panoramic view of the capital San Salvador, with Guatemalan shirt!
Las pupùsas !!! Loved them
Francisco's bday!

Thank you all guys for making my stay in El Salvador unforgettable!!